Fuck you, dona Margie

I hate to say, but the karma motherfuckers who love Budism, Toaism and Self help brain masturbation are right: there is a ying and a yang. There is the fucking Chi. No love without hate, no peace without war, no pleasure without pain and, of course, no paradise without hell. The small Mozambican villa of Vilanculos is probably one of the most perfect paradises on Earth, but is also becoming another perfect hell.



I have met one of the local legends mentioned in all the Tourism Guides: Margie, a middle age woman who has lived here for more than 15 years. She has noticed all the changes since the Civil War end and the mass tourism started. Too many changes, and not all in the good direction. Vilanculos was nothing else but a small fishermen village, boring and quiet. There is a wonderful beach and, few miles away, are the Islas del Paraiso.



Those treasures made the tourism came as soon as the conflict disappeared. The first ones to come were the white Southafricans because they found here peace and no crime. But some did not know how to make the paradise last a little bit longer. I have very good Southafricans friends but I also know some of they could be very arrogant dealing with black people because they are afraid of them in their country.





The Mozambicans learnt fast the bad manners like the bad drinking habits. Is always easier to learn the bad than the good. They learnt also there is always more money in a tourist pocket than the little amount of meticais they can earn working one month. Frightened white people are always about to give enormous tips for nothing encouraging blacks to ask or to steal. Now Vilanculos could be dangerous if you walk alone.



Margie realized the change was completed when someday a small girl was happily waving at her. She could hear the girl saying with a big smile: “Fuck you, dona Margie, fuck you”. The girl didn’t understand the meaning of the words probably listened from a 4x4, but then dona Margie understood perfectly what had happened in her small paradise.